Anyone know if the knife in the film was bought or specifically designed for the movie?I have JC’s replica,which is insane.However,I am looking for the real deal and having trouble.I know a couple of guys here made one or two that were exact,but no more ever surfaced.Anyone know what brand name it was?Was it a vintage knife?I know that is an obscure question,but I can’t find any info.Any help would be greatly appreciated.
It was a custom made knife. You can tell by the handle and such. Kinda reminds me a mixture of the size of his butcher knife then with the looks of a bowie knife and keeping the handle just plain and simple. For the real deal and exact specs you might want to contact It’s Alive and maybe we can get the run going for the knife. 
Already sent that PM 10 minutes ago 
Yeah,I believe it was custom made.I have been online looking for hours and I have found very similar but definitely not the same.Thanks for chiming in man!!
Feel it’s necessary to point out that I thought maybe it could’ve been a replica of an actual brand-name knife,since they were phonies.
Hey, I want one of these also!! So if anyone will hit me up with a pm and let me know where and how to get one I would appreciate it very much!! Please!
itss not original well i gues heres a link to the exact knife but rob zombie changed the handle and made it longer
heres a link to the knife http://www.atlantacutlery.com/p-859-hunters-companion-bowie.aspx
I’ve been absent from the net for a while. Yes, the Atlanta Cutlery “Hunters Companion Bowie” is the base knife. I would have told you guys this if someone asked. No one ever did. They are right down the street from me. Knowing the make of the knife only brings you so far in regards to making an exact replica. There’s more work involved then it seems to actually do it.
Atlanta Cultery supplied the knives. They did not make them. They dont know all the steps the prop maker did to make them. I had questions for them after I made mine and brought it in to show them. This is when I relized that they did not make them and they could not provide me with the true answers as to how the prop maker created his.
The handle replacement was created off of a template made off of the Mountain Man Bowie knife.
Here’s the link
http://www.atlantacutlery.com/p-873-mountain-man-bowie-knife.aspx
I wasn’t fibbing when I said the Base Blade cost $80, and the other blade used for the handle also cost $80.
My handles were custom made from a template I traced off of the actual props handle. Atlanta Cutlery was given a prop as a “Thank You” gift.
I traced the template because the Mountain Man handles looked a little bit different to me. Atlanta said they were used- They also said the original wood on the Mountain man was destudded and filled in to make the new handles-
But a side by side shape compare with the actual prop did not match up. I found out near the end that AC didn’t make the film used blades, and didn’t know all of what was done to do it. No, they just supplied these knives to the propmaker and he did things only known to him to make them work.
The “Wood was filled in and reshaped” info from AC was bogus.
Rob Zombie is also a Rock Star- Guitar necks are made of Ebony and Rosewood. I have half a mind to say Rob wanted to see that style of wood used for the knives handle. It is both a unique and odd choice. A 25 + year knife maker near me said it is a wood many knife makers avoid because it’s very hard to work with- even more so when you need enough of it to cover a near 7 inch handle.
I had my replacement metal tang handles cut by a local waterjet guy who works with steel.
I also measured the pins locations off of the gift prop as well from the edge of knives handguard.
I got the wrong pin size when I made my prototype. I placed an October 31st show off deadline on the project. So I had no other choice. I know the correct pin size now.
There are several ways to go about making the knife. I will explain 2 ways in this post.
You have to remove/pry off the original wood coffin styled slabs from the original handle with a flathead screwdriver. The wood will not come off as a single piece. It will splinter/spit crack and breaks. The epoxy bond around the pins will make it harder to remove the wood around them, and of course the metal handle/tang has epoxy on it as well. Expect a challenge to completely pry off and clean the tang of it original wood slabs.
Ue a cutting wheel on the pins, and grind them down flat with the handle with a stone. You will not be able to pry them out. They were hammered in and they expanded to a tight fit into the metal tang/handles holes.
Then you’ll have to cut the original handle off. The handguard is mig welded to the handle on both sides. Remove these welds with a grinding stone and lots of patience.
To get it done quicker and to avoid marring up the handguard with the grinding stone. Remove as much of the weld as you can with the stone. Secure the knife by the handle in a vice. Take a thick piece of leather and lay it over the top part of the handguard. Take a long metal pipe with an inner diameter big enough to slip over the blade. cover plate the top of the pipe with a thick piece of sheet metal. Use a sledge hammer and bang on the top of the pipe to break the remaining weld off of handle to free the handguard. After you do this. You can slide the handguard off of the handle. You need to do this to cut off the handle- and you also need to do this so your cut line will hide underneath the handguard piece.
The cut you make to the original blade to remove the handle has to be done with a metal bandsaw. This way the cut is perfectly straight and clean so the weld on the new handle will be small and strong, and easy to hide under the original handguard. My metal smith built a jig so the cut would be perfectly straight and accurately placed each time.
There isn’t a lot of room to hide the weld to the handle, so you’ll have to measure, mark and make the correct cut or it will show. There’s an “L” shaped overlapping edge that you have to match on your new replacement handle as well, so this new handle will fit and lock into the keyhole area of the handguard and secure it. You have to slide the handguard back down onto the new handle before welding it to the new blade. Because the tolerance of the keyhole in the handguard is too small to push the new handle through it. the base/buttend of the new handle is much wider than the keyhole area of the handguard. So you’ll have to slide the handguard onto the new handle, weld it the new handle to the blade and then slide it up back into the lock-in area. on This is why Atlanta Cutlery will never go into mass production of the knife- There’s just to much work involved to make it.
The option period comes into play when you combine the handle to the knife. You can either mig weld it under the handguard- (I guess a cheap crap butane weld with some solder bright would work, but I didn’t want to do that cause it’s cheap and not very strong- this is what most of those Freddy gloves are made with) -or you could create a key lock like puzzle piece to the base blades original handle that the new replacement handle can clip into. You wouldn’t cut the original handle off to do this. You would have to reshape the original handle so it would be an exacting negative/male shape to the inner positive/female shape handle replacement piece that would clip onto it.
One pin will go into the original handle and the other two pins would go into the replacement handle piece. This, the handguard, and the epoxy held wooden slabs should secure it very well. You would still have to cut the replacment handle in such a way that the new piece could slip in under the handguards keyhole area to hide it’s self under the middle center of the handguard.
If the hold isn’t strong enough you could mig it against the edges where the two parts connect and this would be better because the welds would be hidden under the wood slabs. It would eliminate the difficulty of having to hide a weld under the handguard. Never got the chance to test it but it was the plan for the production run blades. I was going to use a cnc milling machine to make these puzzle cuts in the base blades original handle, but I didn’t get enough interest from you guys to go forward with it. Mig welding works well but it discolors the metal and it’s very tricky to hide that weld under the thin handguard.
The wood is a macassar ebony. It’s a very dense. The length for the handles will need to be slightly more that 6 1/2 inches in length and 15mm thick or so for each side. Turning wood stock with enough wood to make one complete knife cost me close to 50 bucks. I used a die grinder with some 60 and 80 grit flap sanding wheels with an air compressor to do the shape work. You have to go about it in passes, since too much friction can burn the wood. You also have to make a “L” shaped sanding table to sand the pieces flush, so they will sit up against the handguard and the tang, and you have to have the original turning stock cut and plained into smaller pieces for a better starting point. After your done shaping it you use a higher grit sandpaper to polish the wood by hand.
Drilling the holes for the pins in the new replacement handle requires a drill press, some cutting oil and a carbide tip that’s is slightly larger in size in contrast to the pins. The pins can be cut to size by hand with a simple hacksaw or a dremel or air compressor die grinding cutting wheel.
You use a slightly larger drill bit size than the pins when you drill into the wood to make the pin holes. You will want to back and clamp your handles with a piece of scrap wood on the exit area, so the drill bit doesn’t splinter the holes when it when it comes out on the otherside. It will splinter the scrap instead. You do not drill the holes into the slab first. You have to secure them to the tang first, and drill them out by going through the holes you drilled into the metal tang.
What you do is this. You line up and epoxy glue your rough shaped wooden slab to the tang. Clamp it- let it cure for a full 24 hours. After it’s cured you will drill through the holes you drilled into the replacement tang/handle.
Those holes should have been made with a drill press.
You need to clamp a piece of scrap wood on the exit side of the slab. This will prevent the drill bit from splintering the wood when it comes out the other side. It will splinter the scrap wood instead.
Rinse and repeat. Line up and epoxy glue the other slab down and clamp it in place. Let it sit for a full 24 hours. You’ll need to check it after an hour or so, since the epoxy coat you put down more than likely leached into the holes in the tang and the holes in first wooden slab. You can use a small nail and some eyebrow tweezers to clean and pluck it out. If you wait too long the epoxy will fully set and it will be way too rock hard to remove from these holes.
After the second slabs epoxy has cured for a full 24 hours. You will drill through the holes from the otherside, using a piece of scrap wood clamped to onto the exit area of this wooden slab like you did for the other slab, so it doesn’t splinter the wood when it comes out.
Get your pins, coat them in epoxy and tap them into the holes. Once they are set in place. You will position the pin against a metal plate, and then you need to wack them with a hammer. This expands them inside the holes in the tang so they become trapped/locked in.
Let this sit for a full 24 hours.
Now you can grind out the handles shape with the sanding flap wheels and a die grinder. If you are using the right wood, it should take a long ass time to do. The sanding flap wheels will work on the pins. You can use a stone or grinding wheel to bring the pins down flush with the wood if they are too high in relation to the wooden slabs.
As I said Ebony is a very dense wood. It took me about 4 days to do the shape work alone. You have to shape it slow or you’ll burn the wood. Clear 2 part 15 minute epoxy was used for all the epoxy parts.
There is a little more to it than what all I’ve explained and it’s taken me several edits to make this readable for you, but you have more info than I did when I decided to try to make mine. It’s no cakewalk, and it’s not cheap. I had to go through several different people to do this. A wood worker for the plaining and size cuts made too my turning stock. Two pieces he cut had hidden defects in them and they had to be scraped. A water jet guy who charges $85 a hour + the cost of the metal cut on his table, and a metal smith for the weld work, the jigs, the metal bandsaw, and his cnc milling machine to drill the holes in the metal tang (The drill press is my affordable solution/suggestion to you guys who want to try this yourselves)
I’m sure there are ways to do it cheaper, but the end result will be cheaper, and I was pretty set in making my knife a knife, and not just a visual prop.
I had plans on making my own handle, but WHAT?! That is WAAAY too much work for the little amount of time that I have!
That is exactly how I felt after I made my mine. I jumped in head first thinking “How hard could it be” with no real concept of all the work/cost involved to see it through.
My metal smith and I settled on a fair price of 60 to cut and weld the new the blade, but then he said we needed metal jigs made so we could make the same cuts and drill hole placement each time. So he started charging me 60 for every session involved to make these parts. He spent one day making a cutting jig to remove the handle with the metal band saw.
Another session was used to cut and weld the base blade to the handle. I had him make a metal support base with a support arm. The support arm is clamped into a vice. The top part of the upside down “L” shape base is perfectly flat. The blade and the handle part go on top of this support base. They are lined up and joined, and then clamped down onto this support badse. This way they both pieces are perfectly flat and level to one another. The support base has a cut out/open area where the base blade and handle are joined against each other so the weld work does not lock the newly welded knife to the support table, it also allows you to slide the handguard down the replacement handle so it’s out of the way while the weld is made. The last session was used to drill the holes into the handles. We had to make a jig/guide plate for that as well so each new knives handle pin placment would be exactly the same when we drilled them.
I felt ripped off to be honest we could have done this in two sessions not 3, and he said he might want more if I made anymore through him. I got in touch with someone else who would let me use the same tools to do this on my own with a flat one time payment per knife. I watched everything the metal smith did. So I figured this issue was solved.
So yeah, I was pretty burnt out by the time I finished making the knife, and I knew the price tag wouldn’t fly for others here who might want one.
At one point I was thinking about making and selling the puzzle cut styled replacement handles. People would still have to remove the handguard, cut out/grind a negative connector shape into the original base blades handle, drill one pin hole into that base knives handle, purchase the wood, do the wood shape work epoxy and pin settings themselves.
Sadly this option would still leave a large learning and tool requirement that many would not be able to do on their own or even care to do. There’s no easy way to do it and do it right. I was going to offer a run later on down the road at $250, but now I just don’t think I can pull it off.
I’ll probably just get the Atlanta Cutlery Hunter’s Companion until JC get’s a chance to make my copy of his H2 Bowie replica.
If you went on to sale these down the road, I’m sure I wouldn’t be the only one interested!!!
I agree!
I bought the bowie knife at the above place & i got it yesterday & its fxxking great gotta change out handle with custom handle but u’ll B really happy if u get 1 or 2 !!! 4 the price u cant beat it & store where i got bowie made handle & sold rights 2 ??? i asked when i bought it 4 template 4 new handle & ur on ur own 4 that !!! got mine !!!