Hi, after successfully painting my fist mask, I decided to finally take on the boogeyman I bought a year or so ago.
This one requires a bit more work compared to the 1978, and I was a bit worried about messing up, but I present to you, new eyecuts and a mouth slit!
First of all, here’s how my copy looked before
Now, onto the updated look:
Of course, it looks jaggy in this pic but it’s mostly because of the stock black eyeliner that goes over the actual cuts
Now, for the mouth slit, here’s how the mask looks with a bit of that chin stretch
It’s just a simple straight cut, I was worried about it cause i know straight cuts seem an easy cause of tears, but this mask is so thick that it seems to withstand a bit of pressure there.
Yeah, at the same time, I wish the boogeyman was a bit more accurate to the OG, I can see a lot of detail missing compared to an original Kirk or even TOTS’ creep (they should really bring that mask back.) especially in the cheek area, i’ll probably have to do a bit of fake shadow work there to make the cheekbones pop.
Now the question is, should I keep the mouth open as I paint with liquid latex? Cause i’ve been thinking, since the mouth cut has basically no spacing between the upper and lower lips, when the mask is not worn, it almost seems like there’s no cut at all, I’m worried that if I just paint there with the mouth closed, liquid latex will basically stick to both and kinda “reseal” them together, if it makes sense?
I further tweaked the eye cuts, it kept bugging me looking at the reference that the right eye didn’t have much of a lemon shape, especially that curve near the nose.
This has been really stressful, i’d say more than cutting the eyes initially, I was actually worried i had messed up at one time, but I managed.
What do you think?
EDIT:
I took this photo with the new eyecuts, so much potential…
I finally started the rehaul today, decided to do some preparation work before painting the mask with latex and acrylic white.
I added glue lines using superglue (bostik, it’s stretchy so will bend with the mask with no issues) and patching the little factory defect on the chin with a bit of liquid latex.
I’m waiting for the latex to fully cure till I can go and paint over it with the mix.
Very nice. This actually convinces me that the Boogeyman sculpt is much more accurate than the 78. I immediately disregarded it because of the stock photo and it has everything to do with the hair, I guess. Great job
Definitely, I will say though that the stock image is probably the most honest stock image TOTS has ever put out, the mask is literally like that when it arrives, hair slicked back and glued to the bottom of the neck, eyeholes exactly like that, if anything it proves that them putting “better” master versions of the masks as stock images proves that it makes them sell better .
Anyway, i’ve finally completed the boogeyman rehaul, and i’m really happy, i’m so proud of it.
Here it is next to the 1978, and now that I worked on both masks, yeah, i’d say the boogeyman is better by a longshot if you take the time and care to rework it.
I’m sorry, I completely missed this message, so hope this is helpful even one year later:
pinch the mask in mouth area
using cuticle scissors, cut a small straight hole like this -, really just a small cut
stop pinching, insert one side of the scissors in the hole and using that, cut from there a straight line first on one side then on the other
I should mention, do some research first cause you don’t have to cut the mouth completely, leave like 1cm of the mouth closed on each side as the hero mask was like that (where basically the lips join together)
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