Foam Filling A Mask

[Slasher75]

I have a few vintage masks that I will never wear and would like to have them foam filed to preserve them for as long as possible. Do I send them out to someone to be filled? Or can I do this myself somehow? Any insight would be appreciated. But please… don’t recommend a product that will destroy the latex.

[Caleb_Croft]

This is a good question Chad. I’m interested as well

[1962]

Foam filling a mask outside of the mold is risky. If you are not a handy person it may be better to leave it to a pro.

Happy to explain my process which I’ve used in pro FX shops if you want to take a crack at it yourself. A lot of folks will tell you that distortion is the biggest issue but for me the biggest issue is just properly sealing the mask so the foam doesn’t leak out from any holes or seams. You really don’t want any drips, leaks, anything, on the outside as the foam is incredibly hard to remove. If you do get foam on the outside of the mask you can quickly wipe it off with 99% alcohol but be careful as it could also affect the paint on the mask. Better to just be super careful to avoid it.

What I’ve done in the past is brushed out thin layers of latex on a table and dried it with a hairdryer. This takes a while as it needs to be about 15 brushed layers to get thick enough. Then you cut the sheet into proper patch sizes to fill the seams and holes. I like to attach them from inside using Prosaide. If you wanted to for some reason you can easily cut out the eye holes again later.

You want a flexible polyfoam. Do not use hardware store canned foam. I recommend BJB polyfoam, TC-284 is a good foam for filling. Smooth on has one called “Flex Foam It X” that is comparable but personally I find smooth on foams to be pretty low quality. You need an accurate gram scale, read the info sheet for mixing ratios.

The trick to avoiding distortion is just doing the foam fill in batches. I will mix a small batch and rotate the mask around to cover as much of the face and neck as I can, and then hold it in my lap face down as the foam expands gently keeping it in shape. Because there is only a thin layer on the whole inside surface, you won’t have a ton of expanding foam forcing the whole thing out like a balloon. From there you can either hang the mask upside down, or turn it neck up and keep it in your lap, and slowly fill the head with 2-3 more small batches. Again, usinf your hands to gently keep the shape. Wear a respirator and goggles if you use this method, the foam puts off some nasty gasses as it expands.

If all that sounds like a bit much, try reaching out on the Latex Mask Central on FB and I’m sure you can find someone happy to fill them for you.

[theHEDGE]

Foam filling a mask outside of the mold is risky. If you are not a handy person it may be better to leave it to a pro.

Happy to explain my process which I’ve used in pro FX shops if you want to take a crack at it yourself. A lot of folks will tell you that distortion is the biggest issue but for me the biggest issue is just properly sealing the mask so the foam doesn’t leak out from any holes or seams. You really don’t want any drips, leaks, anything, on the outside as the foam is incredibly hard to remove. If you do get foam on the outside of the mask you can quickly wipe it off with 99% alcohol but be careful as it could also affect the paint on the mask. Better to just be super careful to avoid it.

What I’ve done in the past is brushed out thin layers of latex on a table and dried it with a hairdryer. This takes a while as it needs to be about 15 brushed layers to get thick enough. Then you cut the sheet into proper patch sizes to fill the seams and holes. I like to attach them from inside using Prosaide. If you wanted to for some reason you can easily cut out the eye holes again later.

You want a flexible polyfoam. Do not use hardware store canned foam. I recommend BJB polyfoam, TC-284 is a good foam for filling. Smooth on has one called “Flex Foam It X” that is comparable but personally I find smooth on foams to be pretty low quality. You need an accurate gram scale, read the info sheet for mixing ratios.

The trick to avoiding distortion is just doing the foam fill in batches. I will mix a small batch and rotate the mask around to cover as much of the face and neck as I can, and then hold it in my lap face down as the foam expands gently keeping it in shape. Because there is only a thin layer on the whole inside surface, you won’t have a ton of expanding foam forcing the whole thing out like a balloon. From there you can either hang the mask upside down, or turn it neck up and keep it in your lap, and slowly fill the head with 2-3 more small batches. Again, usinf your hands to gently keep the shape. Wear a respirator and goggles if you use this method, the foam puts off some nasty gasses as it expands.

If all that sounds like a bit much, try reaching out on the Latex Mask Central on FB and I’m sure you can find someone happy to fill them for you.

This is some seriously helpful information. Thank you.

[Slasher75]

Foam filling a mask outside of the mold is risky. If you are not a handy person it may be better to leave it to a pro.

Happy to explain my process which I’ve used in pro FX shops if you want to take a crack at it yourself. A lot of folks will tell you that distortion is the biggest issue but for me the biggest issue is just properly sealing the mask so the foam doesn’t leak out from any holes or seams. You really don’t want any drips, leaks, anything, on the outside as the foam is incredibly hard to remove. If you do get foam on the outside of the mask you can quickly wipe it off with 99% alcohol but be careful as it could also affect the paint on the mask. Better to just be super careful to avoid it.

What I’ve done in the past is brushed out thin layers of latex on a table and dried it with a hairdryer. This takes a while as it needs to be about 15 brushed layers to get thick enough. Then you cut the sheet into proper patch sizes to fill the seams and holes. I like to attach them from inside using Prosaide. If you wanted to for some reason you can easily cut out the eye holes again later.

You want a flexible polyfoam. Do not use hardware store canned foam. I recommend BJB polyfoam, TC-284 is a good foam for filling. Smooth on has one called “Flex Foam It X” that is comparable but personally I find smooth on foams to be pretty low quality. You need an accurate gram scale, read the info sheet for mixing ratios.

The trick to avoiding distortion is just doing the foam fill in batches. I will mix a small batch and rotate the mask around to cover as much of the face and neck as I can, and then hold it in my lap face down as the foam expands gently keeping it in shape. Because there is only a thin layer on the whole inside surface, you won’t have a ton of expanding foam forcing the whole thing out like a balloon. From there you can either hang the mask upside down, or turn it neck up and keep it in your lap, and slowly fill the head with 2-3 more small batches. Again, usinf your hands to gently keep the shape. Wear a respirator and goggles if you use this method, the foam puts off some nasty gasses as it expands.

If all that sounds like a bit much, try reaching out on the Latex Mask Central on FB and I’m sure you can find someone happy to fill them for you.

Well this answered any question that I had… that’s for sure. Very informative information. Thank you. Just wondering. Do you foam fill for people?

[1962]

Well this answered any question that I had… that’s for sure. Very informative information. Thank you. Just wondering. Do you foam fill for people?

No problem at all. I don’t see folks talking about this kind of stuff often so I’m happy to at least share the methods that have worked for me. I do not take on foam filling projects that aren’t for myself or studio work, just don’t have the time or energy sadly.

[Slasher75]

Well this answered any question that I had… that’s for sure. Very informative information. Thank you. Just wondering. Do you foam fill for people?

No problem at all. I don’t see folks talking about this kind of stuff often so I’m happy to at least share the methods that have worked for me. I do not take on foam filling projects that aren’t for myself or studio work, just don’t have the time or energy sadly.

Ok cool. Thanks again for all the info.

[Slasher75]

Foam filling a mask outside of the mold is risky. If you are not a handy person it may be better to leave it to a pro.

Happy to explain my process which I’ve used in pro FX shops if you want to take a crack at it yourself. A lot of folks will tell you that distortion is the biggest issue but for me the biggest issue is just properly sealing the mask so the foam doesn’t leak out from any holes or seams. You really don’t want any drips, leaks, anything, on the outside as the foam is incredibly hard to remove. If you do get foam on the outside of the mask you can quickly wipe it off with 99% alcohol but be careful as it could also affect the paint on the mask. Better to just be super careful to avoid it.

What I’ve done in the past is brushed out thin layers of latex on a table and dried it with a hairdryer. This takes a while as it needs to be about 15 brushed layers to get thick enough. Then you cut the sheet into proper patch sizes to fill the seams and holes. I like to attach them from inside using Prosaide. If you wanted to for some reason you can easily cut out the eye holes again later.

You want a flexible polyfoam. Do not use hardware store canned foam. I recommend BJB polyfoam, TC-284 is a good foam for filling. Smooth on has one called “Flex Foam It X” that is comparable but personally I find smooth on foams to be pretty low quality. You need an accurate gram scale, read the info sheet for mixing ratios.

The trick to avoiding distortion is just doing the foam fill in batches. I will mix a small batch and rotate the mask around to cover as much of the face and neck as I can, and then hold it in my lap face down as the foam expands gently keeping it in shape. Because there is only a thin layer on the whole inside surface, you won’t have a ton of expanding foam forcing the whole thing out like a balloon. From there you can either hang the mask upside down, or turn it neck up and keep it in your lap, and slowly fill the head with 2-3 more small batches. Again, usinf your hands to gently keep the shape. Wear a respirator and goggles if you use this method, the foam puts off some nasty gasses as it expands.

If all that sounds like a bit much, try reaching out on the Latex Mask Central on FB and I’m sure you can find someone happy to fill them for you.

I’m finally going to get into foam filling masks myself. There’s one thing that I’m not sure about though. I wouldn’t need “self skinning” foam would I? I wouldn’t think so. But I thought maybe you could elaborate.

[FutureReference]

Foam filling a mask outside of the mold is risky. If you are not a handy person it may be better to leave it to a pro.

Happy to explain my process which I’ve used in pro FX shops if you want to take a crack at it yourself. A lot of folks will tell you that distortion is the biggest issue but for me the biggest issue is just properly sealing the mask so the foam doesn’t leak out from any holes or seams. You really don’t want any drips, leaks, anything, on the outside as the foam is incredibly hard to remove. If you do get foam on the outside of the mask you can quickly wipe it off with 99% alcohol but be careful as it could also affect the paint on the mask. Better to just be super careful to avoid it.

What I’ve done in the past is brushed out thin layers of latex on a table and dried it with a hairdryer. This takes a while as it needs to be about 15 brushed layers to get thick enough. Then you cut the sheet into proper patch sizes to fill the seams and holes. I like to attach them from inside using Prosaide. If you wanted to for some reason you can easily cut out the eye holes again later.

You want a flexible polyfoam. Do not use hardware store canned foam. I recommend BJB polyfoam, TC-284 is a good foam for filling. Smooth on has one called “Flex Foam It X” that is comparable but personally I find smooth on foams to be pretty low quality. You need an accurate gram scale, read the info sheet for mixing ratios.

The trick to avoiding distortion is just doing the foam fill in batches. I will mix a small batch and rotate the mask around to cover as much of the face and neck as I can, and then hold it in my lap face down as the foam expands gently keeping it in shape. Because there is only a thin layer on the whole inside surface, you won’t have a ton of expanding foam forcing the whole thing out like a balloon. From there you can either hang the mask upside down, or turn it neck up and keep it in your lap, and slowly fill the head with 2-3 more small batches. Again, usinf your hands to gently keep the shape. Wear a respirator and goggles if you use this method, the foam puts off some nasty gasses as it expands.

If all that sounds like a bit much, try reaching out on the Latex Mask Central on FB and I’m sure you can find someone happy to fill them for you.

I’m finally going to get into foam filling masks myself. There’s one thing that I’m not sure about though. I wouldn’t need “self skinning” foam would I? I wouldn’t think so. But I thought maybe you could elaborate.

He nailed every aspect of it, but his first few words genuinely ring true. Without sending it to a professional, it is NOT easy to keep the shape. Vinyl masks are an oddity, but luckily those stored terribly can be foam filled with ease.

Latex is annoying. Self Skinning foam isn’t a necessity just whatever you do stay away from expanding foam. I find the biggest issue with all of this is maintaining shape. It is way too easy for the foam to actually crack the original mold. Especially the eyes.

I have a friend who does foam filling, buy you’ll find there are few and far between nowadays. People don’t want to mess up and feel bad or take monetary losses. It isn’t so much the cost of material, but moreover the risk at hand when taking on a project mask. I wouldn’t have an issue filling my own masks, but it is truly timely. And I feel like all of us picture our mask keeping its original shape. It is immensely hard to do this just starting out. I’d definitely test run a TOTS if you’re seriously going to try yourself

If you can post material (vinyl/latex) and photos of one of the masks, I can send them to my friend and ask his opinion. I know rot when I see it but he understands the other things causing “mask droop” and other oddities I’ll never understand. I can then pass them on and ask for a ballpark price if you’d like

[Slasher75]

If you can post material (vinyl/latex) and photos of one of the masks, I can send them to my friend and ask his opinion. I know rot when I see it but he understands the other things causing “mask droop” and other oddities I’ll never understand. I can then pass them on and ask for a ballpark price if you’d like

These are the masks that are becoming slightly dry and brittle and imo are in need of attention.

Captain Spaulding - Nose is becoming hard.

Don Post Yoda (1980) - The latex isn’t as soft as it was just a couple of years ago. And brown spots on the neck.

Cratebeast - Nose is becoming hard. So is the latex at the bottom of the neck. And becoming brown.

[Slasher75]

Latex is annoying. Self Skinning foam isn’t a necessity just whatever you do stay away from expanding foam. I find the biggest issue with all of this is maintaining shape. It is way too easy for the foam to actually crack the original mold. Especially the eyes.

I’m a little confused by this. The foam would have to expand to do the job. Even “1962” said he used expanding foam.

This is what I was going to use.
https://www.monstermakers.com/soft-expanding-polyfoam/

[FutureReference]

Latex is annoying. Self Skinning foam isn’t a necessity just whatever you do stay away from expanding foam. I find the biggest issue with all of this is maintaining shape. It is way too easy for the foam to actually crack the original mold. Especially the eyes.

I’m a little confused by this. The foam would have to expand to do the job. Even “1962” said he used expanding foam.

This is what I was going to use.
https://www.monstermakers.com/soft-expanding-polyfoam/

I was thinking you were talking Michael Myers masks. I’m not saying it’s 100% to never be used, but if you look through the forums, Sadly members have used this technique without any proper layering. Michael Myers masks are on averave thinner than other masks which either leaves you with a bug-eyed look, or it expands in areas the total wasn’t as precise or obvious as others areas leading to cracking.

Damn that Yoda is a blast from the past. You actually have 2 very very manageable masks, if possible I’d like to see the spots and if we can trace the origin. Is mask #3 latex as well? The Yoda is basically what I’d call the perfect mask to foam fill. It has a distinct shape and even with adjusted pliable aspects compsred to years ago, it looks damn good.

The hardening of the nose without having other warning signs was always a good thing in my eyes. It hasn’t become either rigid or lacking of shape entirely, and can easily be saved. If you can just take a few inside photos I’ll send them over to my friend right now.


I guarantee there is a yes on 1 and 2, and as long as there isn’t any melted latex or “goop”, even with the extensive details and design I don’t see why he wouldn’t do 3 as well. For the Michael Myers masks I guess it is a bigger deal. Imagine an original 2005 Psycho, and guys wait until it is sagging and cracked. I’m assuming he worries more about those masks because they’re so far gone. You asked about foam filling at the perfect time in my opinion. Also, since you have 3 projects, it’s doubtful the proce will be extremely high at all. I’m hoping we get em over ASAP and you love the end result, knowing you’ll have forever masks. Would you like me to ask him to do a display fill where they stand on their own? Or an altered display fill where they are filled rhe same, but with a hole in the middle for you to keep it on a stand?

[Slasher75]

Latex is annoying. Self Skinning foam isn’t a necessity just whatever you do stay away from expanding foam. I find the biggest issue with all of this is maintaining shape. It is way too easy for the foam to actually crack the original mold. Especially the eyes.

I’m a little confused by this. The foam would have to expand to do the job. Even “1962” said he used expanding foam.

This is what I was going to use.
https://www.monstermakers.com/soft-expanding-polyfoam/

I was thinking you were talking Michael Myers masks. I’m not saying it’s 100% to never be used, but if you look through the forums, Sadly members have used this technique without any proper layering. Michael Myers masks are on averave thinner than other masks which either leaves you with a bug-eyed look, or it expands in areas the total wasn’t as precise or obvious as others areas leading to cracking.

Damn that Yoda is a blast from the past. You actually have 2 very very manageable masks, if possible I’d like to see the spots and if we can trace the origin. Is mask #3 latex as well? The Yoda is basically what I’d call the perfect mask to foam fill. It has a distinct shape and even with adjusted pliable aspects compsred to years ago, it looks damn good.

The hardening of the nose without having other warning signs was always a good thing in my eyes. It hasn’t become either rigid or lacking of shape entirely, and can easily be saved. If you can just take a few inside photos I’ll send them over to my friend right now.


I guarantee there is a yes on 1 and 2, and as long as there isn’t any melted latex or “goop”, even with the extensive details and design I don’t see why he wouldn’t do 3 as well. For the Michael Myers masks I guess it is a bigger deal. Imagine an original 2005 Psycho, and guys wait until it is sagging and cracked. I’m assuming he worries more about those masks because they’re so far gone. You asked about foam filling at the perfect time in my opinion. Also, since you have 3 projects, it’s doubtful the proce will be extremely high at all. I’m hoping we get em over ASAP and you love the end result, knowing you’ll have forever masks. Would you like me to ask him to do a display fill where they stand on their own? Or an altered display fill where they are filled rhe same, but with a hole in the middle for you to keep it on a stand?

Yeah I totally agree with you in regards to foam filling any Myers mask. It would be extremely difficult. Even for a seasoned pro. I don’t think I would ever fill a Myers mask. Just keep them stuffed properly with plastic bags and on a stand. That’s it. If they get hard… oh well, they should keep there shape right?

I’ll take a few more pics of Yoda this evening and post them for you. And yes, the Cratebeast is entirely latex. That would be the super easy one to fill. There’s no way it could lose it’s shape. It’s pretty hefty.

I would want these all to be filled and trimmed. But left alone after that. I would create the holes myself for my stands “poles” so I could control the angle at which they would display if you know what I mean.

[FutureReference]

I’m a little confused by this. The foam would have to expand to do the job. Even “1962” said he used expanding foam.

This is what I was going to use.
https://www.monstermakers.com/soft-expanding-polyfoam/

I was thinking you were talking Michael Myers masks. I’m not saying it’s 100% to never be used, but if you look through the forums, Sadly members have used this technique without any proper layering. Michael Myers masks are on averave thinner than other masks which either leaves you with a bug-eyed look, or it expands in areas the total wasn’t as precise or obvious as others areas leading to cracking.

Damn that Yoda is a blast from the past. You actually have 2 very very manageable masks, if possible I’d like to see the spots and if we can trace the origin. Is mask #3 latex as well? The Yoda is basically what I’d call the perfect mask to foam fill. It has a distinct shape and even with adjusted pliable aspects compsred to years ago, it looks damn good.

The hardening of the nose without having other warning signs was always a good thing in my eyes. It hasn’t become either rigid or lacking of shape entirely, and can easily be saved. If you can just take a few inside photos I’ll send them over to my friend right now.


I guarantee there is a yes on 1 and 2, and as long as there isn’t any melted latex or “goop”, even with the extensive details and design I don’t see why he wouldn’t do 3 as well. For the Michael Myers masks I guess it is a bigger deal. Imagine an original 2005 Psycho, and guys wait until it is sagging and cracked. I’m assuming he worries more about those masks because they’re so far gone. You asked about foam filling at the perfect time in my opinion. Also, since you have 3 projects, it’s doubtful the proce will be extremely high at all. I’m hoping we get em over ASAP and you love the end result, knowing you’ll have forever masks. Would you like me to ask him to do a display fill where they stand on their own? Or an altered display fill where they are filled rhe same, but with a hole in the middle for you to keep it on a stand?

Yeah I totally agree with you in regards to foam filling any Myers mask. It would be extremely difficult. Even for a seasoned pro. I don’t think I would ever fill a Myers mask. Just keep them stuffed properly with plastic bags and on a stand. That’s it. If they get hard… oh well, they should keep there shape right?

I’ll take a few more pics of Yoda this evening and post them for you. And yes, the Cratebeast is entirely latex. That would be the super easy one to fill. There’s no way it could lose it’s shape. It’s pretty hefty.

I would want these all to be filled and trimmed. But left alone after that. I would create the holes myself for my stands “poles” so I could control the angle at which they would display if you know what I mean.

Ahh I didn’t even think of that. That makes more sense and in my eyes what he calls a “display fill” is the way to go anyway. It gives me piece of mind the mask will live forever and I could simply toss it on the nightstand with no issue!

The only thing I will say, is the end result of the foam filling doesn’t leave the masks feeling stiff or rigid at all, but it isn’t as pliable as the foam on foam heads if that makes any sense? Like I’m pretty sure the wooden stand pole would snap if ya tried to alter the foam but 100% there are ways around this. Even if I needed an ice pick, I’d opt for what you’re opting for. I like the ability to display a mask exactly how I want, you know?

Like I could send him the Yoda and if he added the hole, even if it matches perfect to your photo, you may want to consider a different angle and you’d be limited. I’m going to email him the photos right now for you brother and get an estimate! When foam filling, I’ve seen projects where rot got too high internally making it impossible to trim. He ended up using some substance inside the mask just on the very dark spots, and somehow got it filled. Of course, it was an old Samhain about 5 years late to getting filled but it ended up looking good!

Again, sorry for length. I wasn’t able to tell if third was Vinyl and would never want you unhappy with a grail of yours. Knowing it is latex, I can’t see a world in which he says no. Also, thank you for being knowledgeable about latex masks man. I expected photos of “lost causes” but you’ve kept damn good shape of these older masks. Beyond impressive and I can’t wait for you to have that worry gone and know that they’ll outlive us all!