So i used masking tape before on a couple attempts (on inside of mask to cover eyeholes and other orifice holes on masks , and didnt have a residue issue when trying to restart /redo mask , maybe applied the tape with too much pressure, but now i have residue all on the inside of mask(s). Not a huge deal as you dont see it but ive tried rubbing alcohol and dish soap seperatley to no avail… greatly appreciate some help here. Ive been told of goo gone would that work? Or will sweat and heat just warp the shape , (pun intended )of the pesky masking tape residue and remove it over time? By the way, dellicate surface tape is a best friend. For Halloween prop spray painting and mask painting
Really would like to dissect rehauling because redoing a rehaul is frustrating , once , let alone multiple times. Please, all valuable knowledge welcome. Ive come along way but had to fail alot doing it and think we should just open up on some valuable techniques. Yes i know there is a master thread but i couldnt seem to dig up any really in depth stuff. The real nitty gritty so to speak . Also trying to get the confidence to try again been very disheartening at times. Just been one thing after another whether its questioning what a certain part looks like (clear photos are hard to come by of hero masks) to trying to blend mistakes and on and on and on. Im learning but its been ardous and painful. Simple things can make or break a rehaul sometimes . Not trying to get every line perfect because alot of the times the lines arent perfect but i want to get the overall feel and eerieness to something im happy with. That being said there are certain things that look a certain way … shapes you could say… this Will be another missed halloween for me , (so much work to do still) but hoping next year will be the one. Cant wait to share what ive got going will be epic i promise. My brothers is into woodworking and is creating me an arsenal (movie props) out of wood that i am doing all the finishing on. Working on H6 axe , kills halligen bar …and a bunch of others… gunna go all out and do weathering and blood as well…sorry I tend to rant. Halloween is my jam. Many shapes make up The Shape…
Hot tip for mask mistakes … if you need to remove latex/ layers /plasti dip or rubber seal and clear coats this stuff is gold. Its non toxic and doesnt eat away at latex dont need to wear gloves and is also good for stripping any clear coat on new TOTS masks (why is the 78 glossy?!) when you want to rehaul and make sure you can get all the details (cracks and such) better defined by removing that top coat of the factory mask but not actually removing the TOTS paintjob or harming the structure of mask)(especially on kills/ends , kills has a gloss coat and ends has a top coat and also great for removing the supbar mold on ends as well with minimal fuss) Ive done it dozens of times believe me lol , repainting and restripping and reprepping and repainting (masks none the worse for wear however ) . Gonna get one right sometime soon!!! (Had to strip the curse mask in my profile pic again , just missed some crucial details but practice makes it perfect I suppose) trying to complete kills/ends/curse /and 78 masks FYI. Would love to discuss processes/tones /brushes layers and finishing and mask care for finished product for any and all masks . And more than happy to share failures/successes and things to avoid as well. Dont have an airbrush , doing all of it the old fashioned way.
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Hopefully you figured out the tape residue issue, but if not, I would spray the inside of the mask with plasti dip after wiping with alcohol (turn the mask completely inside out). It will cover the tape residue and no more stickiness. Then just powder the mask as the plasti dip makes it pretty grippy. Might even prevent deterioration as it’s an extra layer between sweat and the latex.
Flipping the mask inside out won’t ruin it?
I’ve never had an issue with it as long as you used latex in the paint. Just have to be careful with the slit in the back when turning it inside out or back to normal to avoid it tearing.
Mask maker Nick Mulpagano flips them inside out to coat in his YouTube videos and I trust his methods, he’s respected and knows what he is doing.
Of course it would be best to do any inside out work before the final paint and hair, but that isn’t always an option.
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How many coats should i do then?
Found some stuff too
Think its just outside of mask tho.
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I only had a problem with plasti-dip once when I sprayed too heavy of a coat. I usually do 2 light coats about 20 minutes apart. The mask may distort slightly but it goes away when it dries as long as it’s a thin coat.
I do the outside and inside if I’m going to wear the mask as I destroyed my 2018 from sweating in it after wearing for just 1 night. I then use cornstarch powder on the inside when it’s all dry.
There is a video of Nick spraying the inside with plasti-dip in one of his YouTube videos (I can’t find it), and that’s where I got the idea. He said in the video it is to “give the mask as much protection as possible”.
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