I tried to search for some answers, but I came up short, so apologies if this has been discussed elsewhere (I’m sure it has). I have a 98 proto that was finished by Roland, I’ve owned it for several years now, and it’s just been sitting on a stand as is. I wanted to give it the Castle stretch but i haven’t really been able to nail it. Wondering if anyone else here has any tips for getting it right. Thanks in advance.
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There are many different ways to achieve the look. I often will take a toilet paper spool, cut it to the size I want and then take some Polyfil and stuff a little into both ends of the empty spool. With the mask stuffed with Polyfil (or plastic bags) I will place one end of the spool into the chin area and then place the other end somewhere under the nose area. Add or take away Polyfil around the jawline to get the desired fullness.
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Similar to what ML said, I use pillow stuffing (black) to fill the mask and then something rigid from the chin to the back of the head. My go-to has been a wooden ruler that I cut to length and then rounded the edges. 
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since the og stretch was the result of the mask being too small for castles head and his face could not fit alll the way into the mask. his chin was actually wedged in the chin area just below the mouth.
the way i stuffed out my MIKE DROP before molding, was, i put the mask on a foam head. i cut a peice of foam to wedge into the chin opening just as castle’s was. then i strategically stuffed out the mask with cotton balls to match castles head shape, using ref pics.
nick m
yea that’s smart. I guess it will take some trial and error. I had been trying to figure out how to recreate that effect of his chin being wedged, but i was worried about potentially stretching or ruining the mask in some what. I actually have to pick up a foam head to mount it on, or similar. thanks for the suggestion!
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if you stuff and display a typical mask and stuff it out to the castle stretch, the latex will eventually form to that shape. nick m