There isn’t anything you can do to preserve latex or plastic. Rubber breaks down eventually. The bonds in the structure start to break down.
Extremes of heat and cold will increase the break down time. Obviously moisture, sweat, and oil will eat away at it if it’s not cleaned off. You might want to wear gloves when you handle it or at the least wash your hands first.
Think about a car. If you leave it out in the heat the rubber bits like wiper blades will rot pretty fast. HOWEVER, a car or boat … you’re not displaying the wheels for the art of how the wheel looks. It’s just black rubber with no paint or detail. You just want to keep them supple for use and they only last a few years anyway from wear. It’s a different thing.
I wouldn’t apply any kind of chemical to it, as it may interact with the mask and paint and change the composition over time. It might actually increase the breakdown and react with something in the mix. Also I WOULD NOT keep it in an airtight case as that may increase the chance of oxidation. You want to keep it free from dust but give it some room to breath. (Just like how sealed toys or plastic items will turn yellow over time)
Just keep it clean, dry and in a temp controlled room. That’s all you can do. It really comes down to how good the rubber in the mask is in the first place. If it’s pretty good quality latex it should last as long as it can.
Another reason I’m hesitant to spend money on masks. There’s been a few that I really wanted but to dish out 800+ dollars for something I know may not last very long is not something I’m easily willing to do, no matter how good said mask is. A latex mask is not like many other collectibles that can last you virtually forever.
Eh. I think most hand made masks made by a good mask maker will last for decades. The original movie mask was a cheap mass produced halloween mask for kids. It still took 30 years and a lot of abuse to fall apart.
I doubt my masks will decay before I’m old enough to care, and I can sell them then if I want.
For any updates from people who have used Aero 303 on their masks- any updates?
I’m sure we all want to preserve them as long as possible. I use corn starch and all the other precautions, and I sprayed matte plasti dip on the inside of one mask I am going to wear kind of as a test.
It’s been 5 years, which I think would be long enough to see any negative effects, or maybe people have noticed that the Aero did help
Responding to your bumping of this post. I’ve used 303 on virtually every mask I own, and have done so, the past 5+ years, now. I cannot recommend the use of 303, enough. I’ve used it on masks, such as a KH/DW, DB2, 4 Stamp, etc. That is how confident I am with this product. I own a mask that I’ve used 303 on, which has been in my possession, 6 years, and it feels brand new.
I will warn you, though. If you have any signatures on the inside of your mask, the aerospace might remove it, so you definitely have to put that into consideration.
If anybody has any questions about this product, feel free to ask. As long as I continue to collect, Aerospace will forever be a tool that I use to prolong the longevity of my collection. Tom Savini endorses the use of this product, and Ken Hertlein used it on the run of the KHU, that he released. It’s legit.
Just keep your masks in cool room temperature, 65 degrees for me is ideal, and store them away from sunlight. Make sure that your masks are also stuffed so it doesn’t warp due to gravity. Not wearing your masks and using it as a display, and having a case for it to prevent dust will make your masks last for a lifetime, and can definitely outlive you. Minimize skin oils on the masks as possible, which is why I use gloves when handling any latex product.
I have a 2002 Cinema Secrets Mask, still brand new condition to this day.
Cool, I appreciate the update! I might start using it on my masks. Do you use it just on the inside, or the whole thing? Any does it make the outside glossy? Or just it dry completely clear/matte?
I started using Aero 303 probably 15 years ago on classic cars- I put it on some NOS brand new tail lights I bought for my classic car to keep them nice and prevent the clear part of them from turning yellow. I know it worked great on those so I know it IS a great product!
Not a problem at all. Happy to share the knowledge.
You apply the aerospace just on the inside of the mask. And take a rag, and buff it out. Be careful not to get it on the paint, as it can leave a slight trail of gloss. But, you can remove it, if it does occur.
Personally, I’ll spray the inside, and let the mask sit with the solution, carefully, overnight. But, that’s just me, as I’m experienced, and I’m trying to maximize the effects of 303. But, I don’t suggest anyone else do that, if you’re a beginner at using 303, as things could go wrong, with the solution leaking out of the mask, onto the paint.
Ultimately, spraying the inside, buffing it until the inside is completely dry, will suffice.
I saw that you utilize plasti dip on your masks. I suggest, that if you go down the 303 route, that you don’t utilize plasti dip, anymore, on any mask that you’ve used 303 on. I surmise that the plasti dip will not dry, and there could be a reaction of sorts, if combined. To stay safe, from this point on, 303 is more than adequate.
Thanks for that tip-
Yeah, I plan to only use one or the other. Not only to avoid reactions, but as somewhat of a test! In a few years, I’ll be able to see if the plasti-dipped inside ones that I wear did any good or not. And from using 303, it doesn’t seem like anything else will ever adhere over it and it doesn’t make sense to put it on over plasti-dip as either the plasti-dip is going to work or it isn’t. I sprayed those few with plasti-dip on the inside after seeing Nick Mulpagano (mask maker/rehauler) recommend and do it.
I haven’t done anything to my nice display masks except a little talcum powder. I was holding out until I decided on the best solution. Seems like 303 might be the way to go there. It would be much easier to apply as well, you pretty much have to turn the masks inside out to apply the plasti-dip and I prefer to avoid doing that, always the risk of tearing it or something.
My personal suspicion has always been that the paint protects the latex a little bit and that the BARE latex inside is the place where decay/rot usually starts so that is what I’m really concerned with.
