I’ve seen his videos. I figured you must have removed the paint to get that level of detail. Nice work!
Much appreciated! I would love to see your 2018 mask when it’s finished!
In your opinion, how does doing a dark basecoat and dry brushing white compare to Nick Mulpagano’s technique of doing a thin basecoat of white and washing with dark?
I’ve always found that technique a bit tedious and in my opinion I don’t really like it. When you have a basecoat of white and then do a black/brown wash, it tends to stain and discolor the white. If you look on the screen used mask, there is actually quite a bit of white that peers through. So I like having that dark basecoat, dry brushing with white and then dry brushing areas with more of a cream color. Once you have those cracks popping out and those base whites, I then took a light brown with a little bit of green and instead of watering it down with water, I actually used rubbing alcohol. All the discolored areas like around the hairline and around the eyes, that’s where I do a “wash” with that brown and green mix. You don’t want to saturate it and repaint the white, you just want to discolor it, so work it little by little and build it up.
Great tips. That’s similar to what I do with the H6s–dark colors underneath a thin coat of off white. How thick is your dark basecoat? Transluscent or opaque? And how white is your first coat of white?
My dark basecoat is opaque. I don’t water it down at all. It’s a mix of black, brown, and liquid latex. I’m not familiar with the whole ratios thing, but I add enough liquid latex to make sure it sticks to the mask. And I make sure that the layer isn’t thick at all. You don’t want to cake on the paint and end up filling in the cracks and crevices. You just want enough to where the mask is completely covered but not thick. My first layer of white is actually really white. I mix pure white with a small amount of cream. After that coat of white, that’s when I go in with just the cream to discolor a few areas. The areas that should remain a close pure white are the cheeks, the center line on the nose, and a few areas on the forehead. There are also spots of white on the sides of the eye, closer to the temple, but for the most part, those areas as well as the rest of the mask are more of a cream color.
Thanks!! It definitely has potential for sure. I did it as much justice as I could.
Since I’m not stripping the stock paint, filling in the cracks and losing detail is exactly what I’m trying to avoid. I’ll try out the technique on the back of the neck first to get a feel for it. Thanks!
No problem! I’d like to know how the mask comes out when you’re done!
Well I think it looks good man, definitely brought out the features better than the stock paint job does. Good stuff! 
Ok, so, if I wanted to based coat an H40 with an Airbrush, whats the best to to mix Latex and the paint? And how watered down should it be for the airbrush?
1:1 for paint to water. And then about a quarter of that mixture is latex.
New to the forum, but not the hobby. Looking for someone who can do a complete re-haul and re-hair of my 2018 mask. Looking for as close to screen accurate as possible. Any help with a point in the right direction is greatly appreciated.
New to the forum, but not the hobby. Looking for someone who can do a complete re-haul and re-hair of my 2018 mask. Looking for as close to screen accurate as possible. Any help with a point in the right direction is greatly appreciated.
I have a real dumb question and so I apologize in advance. Even though I don’t know very much about the Halloween movies, I want to buy a TOTS rehauled 2018 mask. My dumb question is what do sellers mean when they say they are selling the “hero” paint job of that 2018 mask? Are there other ways people paint this mask? And, if the seller does not say “hero,” how would I know if it was a “hero?” Thanks again in advance for helping this novice.
Hero refers to the main screen-worn mask. So, typically these rehauls are more expensive. If it’s not a hero paint job, it can still look great, but the artist may take more liberties that may not be screen accurate. I don’t rehaul, myself, but that’s what I’ve seen over the last couple years with 2018’s. That may not be totally accurate for all artists though.
-Tof
I am new to the mask game, but want to buy a high quality rehaul of the H40 TOTS mask. I know the paint differs a lot on the ones from the factory. I assume this doesn’t matter for a rehaul because the paint is being removed or pained over. My question is whether there are other differences with the TOTS masks that would make a difference for how the rehaul will turn out? I am talking about the hair and also the shape of the mask and the features on the face like the size of the nose or mouth? If there are differences, does that make anyone here worry when the rehauler buys the mask instead of you sending it to them? Thanks in advance for your help and insight.
Here’s my latest Hero replica. To answer the above question. There are differences in everything from hair color/type, size, thickness of the pull as well as detail definition from the mold. Of course all these things can effect the final look of the mask. Best bet is to hand pick your mask before you send it to a finisher.
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Also regarding doing a dark base. The TOTS H40s seem to have a dark base coat already out of the factory. If they haven’t covered all the required details with the light coats, you might not need to apply a dark base.
I sealed my finished mask with plasti dip, but on second thought and being critical of myself I would like to go back and perhaps do another brown/black wash over the mask and dry brush some areas black, am I okay to go ahead over the top of the sealed mask or should i remove it with some cellulose thinner or something?