ToTs rehauls, rehaulers and rehaul tips MASTER THREAD

hey guys I dug up some old photos of a eye repair I did on a Nightmare that someone had converted to a Tramer. The eyecuts were pretty large and the owner wanted them smaller. I used electrical tape as its flexible and when its heated up even more so. After pulling off the hair it was essential to turn the mask inside out to do it properly. This would definitely be more challenging the hair were left on. :astonished:
In the 1st 2 pics you can see the Nightmare needed help. The eyecuts were pretty high towards the brow lines. I applied tape to the inside and put a very thin layer of neosporin on the tape portion that I could see through the eye. This ensures the latex wont stick to the tape when its peeled off.

3rd/4th pics show the eyecut ready for latex.
5th/6th pics show the latex repair dried and ready for sanding.
Lastly we see the repair from the outside which then I dremeled to make the transition smoother and then applied naphtha with a Qtip and made it seamless.
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I Just started my first rehaul, fiwrst thing I did was changing color to flesh. I used liquid latex and acrylic paint. Then was Time for Fishbelly White coat. This is the result:
Did I added too few latex? (I mean the places where skin coat dissappered)
Is there a way to fix it?
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Very cool thread idea

Did you apply the paint with a sponge or brush?

Looks pretty good! Just need to weather, dry brush and fix the hairline

I used sponge.

Did a bit more work on my 78.
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well the good thing is it will be easy to take off. It may be time consuming though. You can get it off by getting it wet again and rub the excess off by rubbing it with your thumb or the green coarse side of a kitchen sponge. You really need to use an airbrush to paint these masks. The latex will absorb many coats and that’s why you saw it disappear.

I’ve done several sponge only TOTS paintovers.
I rub down the original surface with isopropyl alcohol and one of those white magic eraser sponges to rough it up a little and break the factory varnish.
The first layer won’t cover well and will be patchy. Just keep adding thin layers and dab it gently but thoroughly to squash the paint flat.

Thank you guys for these tips! Of course I was too excited and started to add new coat with sponge and paintbrush. Now I have nice White color but i dont like the surface of the mask. I’m thinking about applying naphtha with brush to get rid of all coats, and maybe trying to do it with airbrush or leave mask alone. What do you think?

Ok, here’s my first go at fixing the hairline on the TOTS H78. I think it turned out pretty good. Let me know what you all think. I’m open to any feedback or constructive criticism. Thanks!
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I ve just ended my first rehaul. I didnt ended up well but here it goes:
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Did you strip the old hairline off or just push the hair down?

Looks great!

Thanks man!

I just did the minimum approach to get a feel for the gluing. At first I wanted to just experiment with a small section to see how the gluing part would go, and I ended up going around the whole line since it was going pretty good.

I put a line of liquid latex overlapping the glue line and bare part of the mask, then pulled small amounts of hair forward and held it for a few seconds until it set. Ended up looking good so I kept going.

So I just did two inch sections at a time until the whole line was done. Its the bare minimum method of doing this, but I just wanted to get a feel for it, and it ended up working out pretty good.

I did somewhat the same except my copy the glue line didnt come off as one piece so I had to sort of “rebuild” the hairline.
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looks good :slight_smile:

After my rehaul I was a little bit mad. So I took naphtha and started using it on whole mask to remove this poor paint job. Which caused Micheal’s mouth to be open. I think I can fix it with liquid latex, so no problem ( I really hope :smiley:) but I also stuffed this mask too much and now it’s looking a little bit like TOTS H2 deluxe ( I own TOTS 78, you can check photo which I included earlier). Is there an option to give it back a proper shape, the iconic Nick Castle stretch? Currently I can’t take any photos until end of the week.

Awesome. I actually did just that and it made it 100x easier for me. I am having trouble with the really fine small crack details still. For the most part, everything is filled in, but I want some more lines to be more prominent and some not so bold. Haven’t tried the weathering yet, but I will definitely post a picture as I get to it. Thanks for the input!